Shea, Starflower and Seabuckthorn Face Cream recipe for dry and mature skin

This moisturizing and rejuvenating face cream with shea, starflower and seabuckthorn is a deeply hydrating and rejuvenating cream, lending wrinkle-smoothing, cell-regenerating, firming and protective qualities to skin. It is a medium-weight face cream, ideal for those with dehydrated, damaged, under-nourished and aging skin. It also makes an excellent moisturizer for winter months, in dry or cold climates where protecting the skin with rich emollients and occlusives may be necessary.

Ingredients | properties and benefits

The moisturizing and rejuvenating benefits of this face cream draw from several different key ingredients outlined below. Together, they offer qualities which make this face cream emollient, occlusive, nourishing, repairing, regenerating, healing and protecting, leaving a silky-smooth feel to skin.

Shea butter – occlusive, emollient and deeply moisturizing; rich in vitamin E to soften and smooth; anti-inflammatory and regenerating; protects from water loss and environmental elements; great for very dry, damaged or dehydrated skin.  Easily absorbed, rich feel.

Starflower (borage) oil – Rich in Gamma Linolenic acid (GLA), a polyunsaturated, omega 6 fatty acid. It increases cell regeneration, improves barrier function, has anti-inflammatory and softening effect. Useful for treating eczema, psoriasis, acne, dry and sensitive skin and aging and damage to the skin from UV radiation. Easily absorbed, light feel.

Rice bran oil – Rich in oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that prevents moisture loss and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Also rich linoleic acid (omega 6, an essential fatty acid) which has anti-inflammatory and regenerating activity, supports skin’s barrier function and increases hydration. Useful for treating eczema, psoriasis, acne, dry and sensitive skin and aging and damage to the skin from UV radiation. Easily absorbed, medium-weight feel.

Glycerin – humectant, draws water into skin from atmosphere to increase hydration of skin.

Hydrolyzed oat protein  – humectant, emollient and occlusive; draws water into skin from atmosphere to increase hydration and softness of skin; smoothes and softens look of wrinkles/fine lines; provides silky-soft feel.

Neroli hydrosol – healing and regenerating; tones and leaves glow to skin; provides light aromatic scent.

Panthenol (Provitamin B5) – humectant; draws water into skin from atmosphere to increase hydration level of skin; maintains skin softness and elasticity.

Sea buckthorn CO2 extract – heals, regenerates and hydrates skin cells; improves skin barrier and reduces water loss; retains moisture; softens and smoothes wrinkles/fine lines; anti-inflammatory, antioxidant.

Palmarosa essential oil – hydrates, softens and smoothes; heals and is an anti-inflammatory; provides crisp citrus scent. (No known contraindications.)

Geranium essential oil – balances, tones and firms; heals and encourages cell renewal; provides light floral scent. (Avoid during first trimester of pregnancy and use in low dilutions thereafter. May irritate sensitive skin.)

Cetyl alcohol and xanthan gum are stabilizers/ thickeners to enhance the stability of the emulsion.

Recipe/formula 

OIL PHASE 

WATER PHASE

COOLING PHASE

* As this product contains water, a broad-spectrum preservative is necessary (Vitamin E, rosemary extract and grapefruit seed extract are NOT preservatives). We like using Preservative Eco (INCI Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid) from Aromantic (UK) as it is an Ecocert-certified preservative. This is also sold as Geogard™ ECT available from Voyageur Soap and Candle Company (USA) and Plantaserv M available from New Directions (Australia). If you are using an alternative preservative you must check the usage rates with your supplier and adjust the recipe accordingly.

If you’d like to learn more about natural emulsifiers and preservatives then our FREE Guide to natural emulsifiers and preservatives will be useful. Download it below.

Step-by-step instructions

Use only clean equipment and tools, and always follow good manufacturing practices (GMP) when making any skincare products.  You can follow the instructions below or use the “heat and hold method”. Read more about the heat and hold method here: Using the heat and hold method for making creams and lotions: pros and cons.

Step 1) Measure all of the oil phase ingredients into a double-boiler or water bath (according to the recipe above), and bring temperature to 75℃.

Step 2) Measure all of the water phase ingredients into a double-boiler or water bath (according to the recipe above). Bring temperature to 75℃.  You can mix the glycerin and xanthan gum together into a slurry first and then add this to the rest of the water phase whilst stirring to aid dispersion. 

Step 3) Pour the oil phase into the water phase. Use an electric stick blender to blend at high shear until the cream has emulsified. 

Step 4) Allow to cool, blending periodically. As the cream cools it will thicken.

Step 5) Once the cream is cooled (below 40℃), you may add the cool phase ingredients and mix well.

Step 6) Distribute into an air-tight pump or jar.

 

Shelf-life and storage

Store the Moisturizing and Rejuvenating Face Cream in an airless pump dispenser for easy and clean dispensing. If preferred, you may use a jar, however ensure users have clean, dry hands or a spatula to remove the product from the jar. As this face cream contains a broad-spectrum preservative, the shelf-life is approximately 6-12 months (perhaps less if stored in a jar where exposed to more contaminates). Label clearly and store in a cool, dry place. Professional testing would determine the exact shelf life.

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