Formulating with AHAs and BHAs
Add new products to your range by learning to formulate with AHAs and BHAs!
Learn to formulate safely and effectively with AHAs and BHAs. Follow our example formulations to create your own face masks, toners, creams and more, then formulate your own unique products.
The benefits of formulating with AHAs and BHAs
AHAs is short for Alpha Hydroxy Acids and BHAs is short for Beta Hydroxy Acids. They are both used as chemical exfoliants. This means that they help to remove dead skin cells by ‘ungluing’ them from each other.
- They soften skin and BHAs also unclog pores.
- AHAs also function as humectants, bringing moisture to the skin.
- AHAs are used as an anti-aging and anti-acne treatment; they can increase the skin’s elasticity and firmness, stimulate collagen synthesis, and help with hyperpigmentation and sun damage.
- They can help to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
- BHAs have the ability to penetrate into the pores and are thus mostly used in acne-prone skin and skin with clogged pores.
- Acids increase the blood flow in the skin and give it a fresh and youthful appearance.
Key safety considerations when formulating with AHAs and BHAs
AHAs and BHAs are amazing ingredients to include in your products. But you need to know how to work with them safely.
- They increase sun sensitivity, meaning after using them your skin will be more prone to sunburn and other types of sun damage. It is essential to use good quality broad-spectrum sunscreen if using AHAs/BHAs as a part of your skincare routine.
- Stick to safe usage levels and use them in the right type of products.
- They need to be used at the correct pH. It is REALLY important that products containing AHAs and BHAs have a suitable pH or they won’t work.
- Know what they are incompatible with and how to reduce the irritation that they can cause.
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Here’s what we’ll cover:
The theory and science
You’ll learn about:
- An overview of what AHAs and BHAs are.
- Details of the functions and benefits of AHAs and BHAs.
- Information about acids and sun sensitivity.
- A chart of AHAs and BHAs with usage guidelines.
- The effect of pH on hydroxy acids.
- How combining chemical and physical exfoliation works.
Ready-to-use formulations and guidelines for formulating your own products
To work with different ingredients effectively it is important to have a detailed understanding of their individual and specific requirements. We’ll cover detailed formulation guidelines, including:
- The product types that typically use AHAs and BHAs.
- Day time and/or night time use.
- Ingredient usage rates.
- Ingredient solubility.
- Which phase to add your AHAs and BHAs.
- How to use AHAs and BHAs together/combining AHAs.
- The correct product pH when using AHAs and BHAs.
- Emulsion stability when incorporating AHAs and BHAs.
- Ingredient incompatibilities.
- How to reduce irritation when using AHAs and BHAs.
You will receive five formulations from our lab, ready for you to make at home.
- Cherry Radiance Mask.
- Superfruit Toner for Blemished Skin.
- Peppermint Foot Cream.
- Regenerating Night Cream.
- Manuka and Green Tea Toner with Salicylic Acid.
Follow our example formulations to achieve success right away before going on to create your own formulations with AHAs and BHAs.
Here's what's included:
- Study from anywhere in the world at your own pace.
- Expert support from our Cosmetic Scientists within the monthly Tutor Q&A.
- Support from your student and graduate peers from around the world inside our Private Student and Graduate Community (hosted on Facebook).
- Join the live Formulator Forums and connect face to face with your student and graduate peers (hosted monthly on Zoom).
- A practical demonstration video showing you how to make the Manuka and Green Tea Toner, which you can follow along with step by step.
- A beautiful textbook to download with step-by-step instructions and beautiful photographs.
- Tried and tested formulations to use, plus guidelines for creating your own unique formulations.
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